The ghost town of Riley, 22 miles from Magdalena, began as
a Spanish-American colony in 1880. These people came to
home- stead little farms here along the Rio Salado.
Soon Riley, then called Santa Rita, had Apache Indian
trouble. In a nearby box canyon the Apaches ambushed a
cavalry troop hunting them. Because of the Indians the town kept
a lookout on a hilltop.
After the Indians were reservationed, Riley settled back to
farm. Soon, though, coal and manganese were discovered. Then
a survey revealed that the town was on Santa Fe Railroad
property. Through government and railroad negotiations, the
people were allowed to keep their farms.
It was the Rio Salado that made Riley a deserted village. Floods
dropped the river level so low that irrigation ditches no longer
could bring the water to the fields. In times the mines closed.
Families had to leave.
You'll see the house ruins of these early-day rancheros
tucked against sunny hillsides. Igloo-shaped ovens hide in
weed-choked yards. A few old peach and pear orchards still
struggle to bear fruit.
In the faded little plaza stands a small rock schoolhouse, with
empty desks and boarded-up windows. Here, too, is the
picturesque little church of Santa Rita standing at one side of the
cemetery.
Marking the graves are hand-chiselled headstones and
wooden crosses decorated with tin medallions. These little
rosettes are typical of early native tin art in New Mexico. One
unusual grave here is that of Jose Baca, veteran of Indian Wars.
One day a year Riley awakens. On May 22, the feast of Santa
Rita, the descendants of those who settled here return for a
fiesta. Mter mass in the church, people join in a big picnic. By
dark, Riley is again a ghost town.
To reach Riley, take the airport road out of Magdalena. Keep
on the main traveled dirt road. Mter an isolated 19 miles, a small
National Forest sign points to Spear's ranch and Riley straight
ahead.
At Spear's ranch you'll see Riley across the river. Drive into
the river only if the water is low, and if you can drive in sand.
Once across, and up into this little ghost place, you'll feel like a
true explorer.